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A thing or two on DIY umeshu

Text: Skylar Cheung
Images and recipe: Vanessa Tsai

        Season after another, passing through wintertime frigidity, there comes that April at the verge of spring and summer approaches with that “plum rain season” (or East Asian rainy season), and literally, that ripening time for plums. For East Asian folklore this had rooted for some millennia: according to Shangshu (尚書; or Book of Documents), an ancient Chinese literature dated around Qin or early Han (before around 200 BC), the Han Chinese had already been consuming plum as a mildly acidic seasoning, as ingredients of a stew as important as salt, hence a good necessity of a daily kitchen.

        An old Chinese saying “peaches and plums houseful” denotes a respected teacher having great number of good students and disciples, and not untrue for the group of plants containing peaches, plums, apricots, dates and alike, in botany, collectively understood as the subfamily Amygdaloideae. Aside from a woody-textured seed, fruit of these fruits are often fleshy and succulent. That ume, in Japanese, also as Japanese apricot, mei, or Chinese plum, an Asian Exclusive (endemic in East Asia), was native in mainland China along the drainage-basin of Yangtze River (or Chang Jiang), later introduced to elsewhere in Asia, and now a daily encounter in Korea and Japan. Some believed the ume was among one of those earliest domesticated plants: precursors in artificially selecting and cultivating plants bearing good fruits (after devouring some nice ones), which abandoning other plants which yield less palatable ones. After countless generations of deliberate selection, identification of the original ancestral strain in the wild eventually deems impossible. While appreciating blossoms in the chills, and harvesting fruits early summer, preserving the fruits by pickling appeared as a sensible routine.

        While stated in the Ben Cao Gang Mu (本草綱目; or the Compendium of Materia Medica) having multiple medical effects, ume, containing catechin, has been shown to enhance peristalsis, and various organic acids also aids in anti-oxidation and delaying signs of aging. As for umeshu (or ume liquor, plum wine etc.), “shu” in Japanese for anything alcoholic, aside from that sour-sweet from the fruit itself, the mellow aroma of the combined, preferably “on the rocks” (served with an ice block), something so soothing and craved for on a stuffy summer night. Of moderate alcohol contents, welcoming tastes and substantial health benefits, umeshu is well favoured by most, including many who would normally dislike taste of alcoholic beverages.

    As straight-forward as having pickled ume soaking into liquor, scent of the resultant piece depends on ingredients used. While rawer, greenish ume crispy and slightly sourish, the riper the sweeter and full-bodied. Liquor with contents exceeding 25% can well serve antiseptic purposes, and many prefer shochu of 35%: tastes lighter not to override that of ume, whereas sake or brandy can also be ideal. Addition of crystal sugar bring soothing textures, golden yellow, while brown sugar boosts an aroma of sugar canes, and the resultant beverage amber-coloured. A well-practised recipe is herein shared. Attempt, and tune up your own!

Ingredients

Ume                                                                     1 to 1.5 kg

Crystal sugar                                                     200 to 500 g (adjust according to taste)

Liquor of alcoholic content 20 to 35%      1.8 litres

Glass container


Procedures

1.  Select ume. Those riper, yellowish give a better aroma.

2.  Cleanse ume throughout, and remove stump by toothpicks, and dry indoors.

3.  Cleanse container throughout and dry indoors.

4.  After both ume and container completely dried, place ume into a container, one layer

      interspaced by sugar after another, then pour liquor to pickle. Note given gases to be

      released during fermentation processes, the ingredients should only fill four-fifth

      capacity of the container.

5.   Place container at somewhere shaded and dry, and age for at least half to one year. Tastes

       enhance with maturity. When liquors turn yellowish or golden, enjoy!
 

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