#14:KueiShan Island

Planet’s respiration:

Into the depths of shallow hydrothermal vents off Kueishan Island

Text: Vanessa Tsai

Images: Dr. Benny Chan

(Academia Sinica, Taiwan)

Off the rugged coast of Ilan, north-eastern Taiwan, there perches in the shallow sea a small islet, as the Chinese name (Kueishan Island) suggests, just resembling a tranquil tortoise when viewed from a distance. As calm as it seems, under the seas, merely some ten metres from the shore, restlessly bubbles a series of hydrothermic vents…

Hopping on to a well-equipped diving boat early in the morning in Toucheng, the sea was exceptionally mild. During the brief one-hour ride, after securing gear towards rim of the boat, taking time to gaze into the endless blues, occasionally gaining glances of some hasty and short-lived leaps of flying fishes dashing across the horizon. Drawing near to that small tortoise from afar, the mountain in front now straight-high, and off that eastern “head”, pervading in the air was just that sulphurous scent, just alike that in that street of hot springs in Beitou, Taipei.

KueiShan

Island

Underwater

Crown after crown of whitish, milky blobs blistering the dark sea surface, just as those craters on the moon, the blobs soon carried with the currents and vanish. The destination of this trip, is towards the bottom of this feature— the hydrothermal vents under the sea just beneath. After all those dives into shallow seas in various localities, sun-lit coral reefs and so on, this one is just different, and being intense all along the way. In general currents are overwhelming, visibilities so low, all those making quite a unique adventure. Well observing the currents and indicating somewhere mild enough to anchor, the dive master signified all already-equipped divers to take their jumps one by one into that “boiling” sea. Staying on thin edge the whole time, gripping the anchor line and descend through the murky bubbling waters, one just loses that slight remaining sense of orientation…

Reaching a depth of some ten metres underwater, finding oneself shockingly situating in an exotic world of yellowish: hills after hills of sulphurous accumulations, and sands beneath— all that dominating sulphurous compound. Initially supposing originating from that shaky physique, heart-poundings were so bold, and soon recognised to be synchronous with the countless strands of air bubbles so desperately struggling to lash out from the creeks into the water column. After some acclimatization, one finally had a good view of the surroundings.

Vent-emitted waters, rich in carbon dioxide and minor amount of sulphur dioxide, can reach temperatures exceeding 100°C. A lifeless zone to expect? But see those numerous small reddish-brownish crabs lingering just beside the vent openings. These vent crabs, being the name Xenograpsus testudinatus are smart enough not to be cooked (despite their reddish colours), and forages with both pincers among the sulphurous rubble. The masses of vent-waters of exceeding boiling temperatures literally “boil-alive” any planktonic organisms in the water column in its way, when vertically ascend towards the sea surface. Countless freshly-boiled dead plankton, somewhat whitish, thus drifts and sinks to the bottom, just as falling fluttering snowflakes. And the crabs, emerging out from the rock crevices they lurk in, feed on these “marine snow”. However, aside from these vent crabs, most other marine organisms nearby prefer to keep an arm’s distance. Shortly from the vent opening, off the grip from the intense temperature and chemicals, organism thrive, having to come across some crimson sea anemone, worm shells and some tiny snails.

Exclusive exploration as is, just like afloat in hot springs, recalling some saying the planet we dwell on lives, now having seen her exhale in some well unknown realms. Still glaring towards that endless horizon and awaking from a surreal experience, making quite a wish to replenish an unfailing spirit, exploring under the skies, as to witness some rich diversity of sceneries to be explored.